Annie Howa Oliveri

2.28.2011

Costa Rica - Day 2

Monday February 28th, 2011

After a much needed good nights sleep (did I mention I was exhausted the day before) we were ready to face the day and excited to get in some adventure and exploring.   We had scoped out the abundance of activities they offered.  There was certainly no lack of things to do from waterfalls that were a short hike away to an eight hour trek up and down the actual Volcano.   Today, we opted to go horseback riding through the mountains.  But first things first.  Let's get some breakfast and try some Costa Rican coffee!!   The breakfast was very basic but good.  There was one exceptional exception!!  You know how when you go to a breakfast buffet there is often a omelet bar where one of the cooks stands cooking custom omelets for you?  Well, the Hacienda had an omelet bar but more importantly they had a tortilla "bar"  Every single morning a woman stood with a grinder of sorts making little dough balls, pressed them out with her own two hands, and cooked them up in a skillet right before your eyes.  Boy do I miss her.

The coffee was different but after a day or so the flavor and consistency grew on me.  By the end of the trip we were buying some to bring home.   One thing really surprised me.  Coffee is one of the country's main crops and exports.  You would think that people would be sitting at coffee shops drinking coffee all day long.  Wrong.  I found that if you didn't drink your coffee before 9 a.m., you most likely would not see any coffee until the next morning.

After breakfast we set out for our horseback riding.   My husband spent a few years working in a stable and I spent a few childhood weeks at horseback camp.  So we both knew what we were getting in to.   The stable worker was very concerned about heading into the mountains and having to ride for 3 hours.  He wanted to know where we grew up (and I'm still trying to figure out what that had to do with horse riding qualifications).   He explained that if you go up, you can't quit, you have to come back down.  We assured and reassured and assured him again that we would be fine.  I suspect most people only want to ride for an hour or maybe two at the most.   Finally, we were introduced to Genaro's stubborn horse, Narizona, and my feisty girl, Hymeala and off into the mountains we rode!    We left the horses at one point in order to hike down a canyon to see crystal clear river fed by the Oropendula Waterfall.  A gorgeous site and although the water was pretty frigid, how could we pass up the opportunity for a swim!   Eventually we hiked back up from the river to continue our entrancing horse ride through the mountains.

Upon arrival back at the Hacienda and having lunch we opted to head down to the Rio Negro thermal hot pools.  We got on a bus, with a group of other people and headed that way.   Genaro is always saying he speaks Spanish like a two year old.  But I don't believe him.  I think he sounds pretty fluent.  He understands them.  They understand him.   It's great.  In fact, I definitely recommend knowing some because while you can always find someone who speak English, we were able to learn a lot more about the places we traveled from the locals who didn't speak any English.    However, on this particular day I'm not so sure the bus driver understood us.   We're on this bus and the bus driver kept agreeing with us that he was taking us to Rio Negro  He did not, however, drive there.  He drove to "the spa."  Simbiosis:  Volcanic Mud Spring and Spa.  I suppose we could have stayed on the bus and insisted on being taken to Rio Negro but we were rather curious and everyone else was doing it.

So we followed the herd into Simiosis.  I wasn't necessary expecting anything but having been to Calastoga on a few occasions and having a hot mud bath at a spa on one of those occasions, I had a picture in my mind of what this place was going to be like.  A VERY inaccurate picture, I might add.   I guess it's only logical that a mud bath in Northern California is very different than in Central America.  A man who had a very Greek personality (although we didn't confirm he was Greek) was standing behind the bar.   It was late afternoon/early evening and I thought we had just walked into happy hour but we were quickly rushed into the hot saunas and -told- ordered by the Greek man, to stay in there for ten minutes.   Here we met a very vivacious Italian couple.  I liked that they spoke English and I could participate in the conversation.  They very much liked the name 'Genaro Oliveri' and laughed.I hadn't ever really thought about it before but I suspect having the name Genaro in Italy is similar to having the name John or Mike in the US.   After the sauna we were herded to the mud.   But it was not a mud bath.   It was bubbling hot lava/mud that was being pulled up directly from the source by a 5 gallon bucket and a rope.  People stood around the bucket with paint brushes painting a coat all over.   I hesitantly joined in.   After rinsing off, we finally got to get a delicious fruity drink and sit in the thermal hot tub. One would be more accurate to call it the thermal 'luke-warm' tub.   Here we ran into Betty and Laura who had an entirely different experience at Simiosis.  They'd just had massages. Laura raved and raved.  She tried her best to convince us that we could not leave Rincon de la Vieja without an hour of heavenly massage from these amazing women at "the spa."   Maybe next time...

2.27.2011

Costa Rica - Day 1

February 27th, 2011

Sunday


We flew into the small airport in Liberia.  Our trip research hadn’t presented San Jose as a place we wanted to check out and Liberia was physically much more convenient to the Guanacaste region.   Outside the airport was a large group of men, many holding signs with names on them.  And as if we were in a movie scene, we spotted one for us that read "Genaro Oliveri".  Taking a friends advice, who resided in Costa Rica for three years, we opted to hire private transportation and not rent a car.  I'm not sure if the man spoke any English or if he was just quiet in general but he grabbed our backpacks and scurried us to the parking lot where his air conditioned van was running and two women were waiting inside.  We met Betty and Laura, two sweet Canadian women who were traveling to the same ranch as we were.  I was very sleepy and chatted very little with these other passengers but in the next few days we saw a lot of Betty and Laura.   

Our van ride was a couple hours long and the exhaustion of the wedding weekend and travel had me in what seemed like a trance.  Despite the exhaustion, I enjoyed the beautiful scenery as we drove closer to Rincon de la Vieja which lies in the Guanacaste Province of the country.   Nicaragua borders the North and the Pacific Ocean boarders the West.  The scenery was less lush than we were expecting.   We learned in summer, Costa Rica is very dry.  We arrived at Hacienda Guachepelin, a working ranch where we would stay for three night.   The reception attendant picked up a walkie talkie and rambled something in Spanish and shortly a woman appeared with fancy drinks and a bottle of liqueur.  Now that's what I call a greeting!  I'm not sure what the juice was, but it was fresh squeezed and delicious.  The bottle was Guara, a Costa Rican clear brandy made from sugar cane.   A security guard helped Betty, Laura, Genaro, and I with our bags and lead us through the simple gardens of the Hacienda.

Hacienda Guachepelin has been a working ranch for over 100 years!   In 1975, Tomás Batalla Esquivel, a renowned cattle and pure bred Spanish horse breeder acquired the property. In recent years, don Tomás's children have joined their father in his efforts to further the family legacy. The property comprises 1600 hectares of land, of which 700 hectares are set aside for the conservation of the tropical dry forest; 575 hectares are used as pastureland; and 325 hectares are being reforested with species in danger of extinction. It is located at the base of Rincon de la Vieja National Park which is known for its impressive diversity of flora and fauna. It is home to two volcanoes, the Rincon de la Vieja and the Santa Maria. It is also home of the most diverse natural exhibit of secondary volcanic activity. There are fumaroles, vapor vents, sulphur vents, boiling mud pots, roaring little craters, fumarolic lagoons and waterfalls that form blue lagoons (we swam in one).  Needless to say, in the days to follow we would see some of Mother Nature’s impressive work.  

 We arrived at our room at the far end of the gardens only to discover the room had not yet been made up by housekeeping.   The exhaustion was taking over every inch of my body and I could not stand up any longer.  I climbed into the hammock on our front porch and fell asleep while housekeeping got room number 55 in order.   We stayed in a “superior room” which was simple and clean.  The bed was far from the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in, but overall I’d say staying there was a GREAT bargain.  

 That evening we headed up to the restaurant (there is one restaurant and one bar) so once the sun goes down the place is very tranquil.   We opted for the dinner buffet as we hadn’t had much in the way of meals during our travels.  We quickly started to realize (and the rest of our trip proved true) that Costa Rica is not known for its cuisine.   It wasn’t bad, but there wasn’t much to rave about.  I will say the pumpkin soup I tried that night was out of this world.   We headed back to our room and called in a night.   We welcomed a much needed good night’s sleep and were very excited to begin some adventures the next day.   The only question was...what to do first?!?!

2.26.2011

Costa Rica - Preface


Everyone told me that the wedding weekend was going to fly past me and be a complete blur. I knew it would come and go fast.  I'm just not sure I was prepared for it to come and go as fast as it did. But this isn't a blog about how wonderful and perfect the wedding weekend was or how fast it came and went,  no, no, no, that would have to be an entirely different blog altogether. This is a blog about our honeymoon trip to paradise and exploring the Northwest region of Costa Rica.

I'm really not sure how Genaro and I woke up that morning for our 4 a.m. shuttle to the airport.  I look back and think that after all the excitement of the wedding, the reception and the after party that went late into the evening of February 26th, 2011,  it would have been possible to sleep through a few different alarms.  I would even believe I could have slept through a marching band going through my bedroom.    But at 3:29a.m., exactly one minute before the alarm was set to blow and only a few hours after our fantabulous marathon wedding reception had ended, Genaro just woke up…sans alarm or marching band.   Lucky for me he was excited and anxious and before I knew it coffee made.  Our shuttle arrived ten minutes early before my feet had even hit the ground (you can read still in bed sleeping).  Genaro announced the shuttle had arrived that got  me vertical in a hurry.  It was cold outside.   Ice storm cold and I grabbed clothes out of my closet half asleep.   We will call my outfit “interesting.”  I hadn't planned what I was going to wear on the plane, only what I was going to wear in warm sunny Costa Rica!!   But despite my lack of showing any signs of fashion sense, my husband of 15 hours and I had our two backpacks in tow and were Costa Rica bound.

We arrived at the Kansas City Airport only to find out we were being upgraded to first class seats.   Gosh, darn, don't you just hate it when that happens?  It was only appropriate to start off the honeymoon with a bloody mary, right?!  Cheers!!!   I'm not really sure that at 6 in the morning that was a good idea but they were free and it made us both sleepy enough to get us through the next 4-5 hours of flights.    Upon arrival in Liberia my “not so fashionable” outfit became even more importantly “not so practical.”  It was hot.   Note to self: when traveling from freezing cold to hot and humid, be brilliant and wear layers, lots of layers.  Layers that can be immediately removed upon arrival in said hot and humid destination.    My husband, he had on layers, he clearly had either planned out his outfit ahead of time, or thinks a lot better than I at three in the morning.  However, in my defense I packed my one single carry-on perfectly.   I didn't under-pack like I do when I go to my sisters.   Although, that might secretly be so I am forced to raid her closet.   I didn't over-pack like I do when I go everywhere else.   One perfectly packed carry-on most certainly made up for my unfashionable impractical outfit I had on.  So here we were in Costa Rica.